Vitamin C Types - The Ultimate Guide
What if you were told that the Vitamin C serum you swear by might not be the skin savior you think it is? Yes, you heard that right! Those Vitamin C-infused products, promising a youthful glow and radiant skin, might not be as straightforward as they seem.
Now, your thoughts might lean towards questioning - "But the label says it's packed with Vitamin C, that's why it's being splurged on, right?" Well, it's time for a skincare reality check.
Sure, these products do contain Vitamin C, but not all types of this sought- after ingredient are created equal. While it might say ‘Vitamin C’ on the front label, if you peek through the ingredients list, names like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate are often found. Sounds fancy, but what exactly are they? Simply put, they're like the distant cousins of the Vitamin C family - less potent and most critically, less researched.
You see, while all Vitamin C derivatives promise benefits, the truth is, not all deliver results with the same effectiveness. So, if you're investing your hard-earned cash in Vitamin C skincare products, hoping for flawless, age-defying skin, then you need to get savvy about which type of Vitamin C your skin is actually soaking up. It's time to cut through the hype and make informed choices!
Let's dive deeper and unmask the 5 most popular Vitamin C types in skincare, shall we? 🍊
L-Ascorbic Acid:
THE GOLD STANDARD
Tested Benefits : Promote collagen, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brigthen
Pros ✔️ : L-Ascorbic Acid (LAC) is the pure form of Vitamin C and is the most potent. Think about it as the double espresso in the Vitamin C world. Celebrated for its effectiveness in promoting collagen production and maintaining skin elasticity, it is a key player in anti-aging skincare. Beyond its role in stimulating collagen synthesis and combating wrinkles and fine lines, L-Ascorbic Acid is also known for its ability to tackle hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals.
Cons ✗ : This potent ingredient comes with a caveat. Due to its inherent instability when exposed to water, light, and air, L-Ascorbic Acid requires careful formulation and packaging to remain fresh. Moreover, its potency might lead to irritation, particularly in sensitive skin types.
Read the full story of L-Ascorbic Acid here.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphatE:
The HYDRATOR & BRIGHTENER
Tested Benefits : Hydrate & Brighten skin
Pros ✔️ : Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that is frequently incorporated into skincare products due to its stability and neutral pH, which makes it gentle and suitable for various skin types. Although studies are very limited, it has demonstrated in vitro antioxidant activity and, when used in a topical formulation, it can contribute to improved skin hydration. Additionally, MAP has shown potential for addressing hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, when formulated in special delivery systems e.g. ethosomes and niosomes. For this reason, it has been used as a popular ingredient in whitening cosmetics. MAP has not been directly shown to promote collagen synthesis, but it has demonstrated in both lab and animal studies to enhance collagen's structural properties, contributing to improved wound healing.
Cons ✗ : It is important to note that MAP, in contrast to L-Ascorbic Acid, suffers from poor penetration into the skin and unreliable conversion to pure vitamin C. It does not promote collagen synthesis nor offer the potency of pure Vitamin C.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:
The GENTLE OIL-BASED ALTERNATIVE
Tested Benefits : no independent studies.
Pros ✔️ : Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD), a newer addition to the Vitamin C family, is distinguished by its oil-soluble nature. Manufacturer claims suggest it may penetrate deeper into the skin than L-Ascorbic Acid, potentially enhancing Vitamin C delivery as well as providing similar benefits. Another advantage is its formulation flexibility, as it does not require an acidic environment, making it suitable for various skin types, especially sensitive ones.
Cons ✗ : Despite these promising characteristics, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate lacks extensive independent research to validate its efficacy as a standalone active ingredient. A recent study also suggest that it might suffer from stability issues under real life conditions unless paired with stabilizing antioxidants.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:
The Acne-Figther
Tested Benefits : anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial
Pros ✔️ : Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of vitamin C that may not excel in anti-aging as much as other variants. However, SAP offers anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits, as demonstrated in in a human vivo study, making it a valuable option for individuals dealing with acne-prone skin
Cons ✗ : It has poor penetration and unreliable conversion to pure vitamin C. It has not demonstrated its ability to offer the anti-ageing benefits of pure Vitamin C.
Sodium Ascorbate,
Ascorbyl Glucoside,
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate:
ThE LEAST STUDIED DERIVATIVES
Tested Benefits : no independent studies.
Pros ✔️: All are derivatives of Vitamin C, with potential skin rejuvenation benefits. Sodium Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Glucoside show promise in enhancing collagen and elastin. Ascorbyl Glucoside is stable and easily formulated, possibly converting effectively to pure Vitamin C. 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate is both water and lipid-soluble, potentially offering depigmentation and antioxidant benefits.
Cons ✗ : Evidence for 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate's conversion to ascorbic acid and skin penetration is based on manufaturer claims only. In fact, all of them have limited human research and require further investigation to validate efficacy. The little data means we have no insights on whether or not they actually possess antioxidant properties or promote collagen production.
| LAC | MAP | THD | SAP | OTHERS | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Research | ★★★ | ★★ | ★ | ★ | ☆ |
| Boost Collagen | ✔ | ─ | ─ | ─ | ─ |
| Brighten | ✔ | ✔ | ─ | ─ | ─ |
| Photoprotect | ✔ | ─ | ─ | ─ | ─ |
| Anti-inflammatory | ✔ | ─ | ─ | ✔ | ─ |
| pH value | 3.5 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 5-7 |
| Stability | 🔴 | 🟢 | 🟡 | 🟢 | 🟢 |
In summary, while there are various forms of Vitamin C used in skincare, L-Ascorbic Acid is unparalleled in its efficacy. It stands out as the only form that comprehensively delivers all four major benefits: collagen promotion, antioxidant protection, skin brightening, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, it's important to note that L-Ascorbic Acid can be too potent for individuals with sensitive skin. In such cases, it may be worthwhile to explore gentler Vitamin C derivatives, like MAP, which has demonstrated its ability to brighten and hydrate the skin, or SAP, known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for those with acne-prone skin. Other Vitamin C derivatives, such as THD Ascorbate or 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, show promise but require further research to fully understand their benefits.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
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L-Ascorbic Acid is generally considered the best for anti-aging due to its potency in promoting collagen production and its comprehensive benefits including antioxidant properties, skin brightening, and anti-inflammatory effects.
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L-Ascorbic Acid is considered the most potent Vitamin C for brightening followed by Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP).
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Check the ingredients list. L-Ascorbic Acid indicates the presence of pure Vitamin C. Derivatives are often listed as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, among others.
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Vitamin C derivatives should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. While derivatives are generally more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid, proper storage helps maintain their efficacy.
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